This is walk 16 in Cath Dyson’s “Navigate your way around… The South Pennines”. I’d had my eye on Boulsworth Hill or more precisely on the summit Lad Law, because I like the name, for a long time. It’s accessible from Walshaw Dean which is one of my favourite spots but I’ve never done it from there.
I parked up at Wycoller and walked to the village, checked the time the cafe shut and decided to get back there in time for an ice cream. I followed Cath’s route but omitted the micro nav challenge up on the top. It’s a great walk with lots of variety, history, farmland, moors, access land, green cloughs with tinkling streams, big stones, woods, bog (only a short section, how I missed my bog pal there). When I got to the road leading out of Trawden, I could hear a brass band so I speeded up to get away. It seemed to get louder the further I went.
Back at Wycoller, I stopped for a very nice vanilla with a flake stuck in it. This is the cafe where I thought I saw Celia Imrie. Wycoller is also where Chris saw a ghost on the clapper bridge. There is a well known ghost in the hamlet but that one doesn’t fit Chris’s description.
The latest project, at least I think it is. Carol and I did most of it 11 years ago when I was going through a rough patch and it helped. Both the physical act of walking and the obsessive recording of what we had done.
Because it’s mostly on footpaths it’s harder to find places to park the car to make sensible routes, this means the sections have to fall between roads. I remember this was the hardest bit before.
Babs is keen to join me I think!
We started in Millbank and headed up for quite a way until we got onto open moorland. Then we went back a different way down lanes with very few cars. All lovely in the warm sun. Quite windy.
B had chores to do so she went off. I returned to the bit with the soggy looking field and went a good bit further. There were some brick and concrete walls which turned out to be the remains of a WW2 decoy site, intended to confuse German bombers. I wonder if it did. Along Water Stalls Road but this is a green bridleway and not a metalled road. I turned back where this lane turns to descend to Catherine House. There were a lot of fidgety cows which made me not fancy it today.
It was apparently very cold when we did this in January 2006. I don’t remember it at all.
I finished off the bit from the day before down to Catherine House which has a big old barn and big old chimney next to it. The cows were all a long way away this evening.
This has been on the list for a while. It’s dramatic from a distance and close up. I parked on the Pennine Way (sounds bad but this was a road section) in Dufton.
It took an hour and 3/4 to reach the head of the nick where I had my lunch. Very windy and cold. The wind went straight up the fell. I practised some micro nav as I went along. The map I used (1:25K) had a GP abbreviation near the head of the nick. This means either a Gas Plug or a Guide Post. I didn’t check it out but reckon it’s probably the latter.
Tremendous views. The nick is the result of lots of volcanic and glacial action and more latterly, mining. See the village web site.
Back down in 1 hour and 1/4. Reversed the route because I didn’t fancy a long scree section to go back along the valley.
Please visit Map and Compass and learn how to interpret a map and use a compass with me and my navigation partner, Cath.
There was a Bill Reid exhibit in the airport, lovely airport with water and greenery. Bill Reid was a noted Haida artist.
Travelling home was straightforward. Everything went as expected except I had to sit next to an obnoxious git. His opener was “I am big, and I have to sit in your seat.” I told him that I’d selected my seat online and basically my answer was “no”. He grumbled on a bit, showing me his massive muscles and it’s quite true he was big but I wasn’t going to give in. He then had some fuss about where his bag was to be stowed and he gave in on that too. Basically he was all mouth, no trousers! At least he was wearing some! He then seemed to want to help me to use my multimedia controls. I probably can’t tell you how irritating this was. Only that morning I’d fixed Klaus’s computer, and I’d shown Bonnie how to do various techy things on her tablet, business as usual. After a bit we just ignored each other. It was very cold on the plane, I wore all the clothes I had plus 2 blankets. I watched the film Jackie about Mrs JFK, not very good. Slept a tiny bit with a blanket over my head. Got the evening meal early because special, not great. Had a free lager and a malt whisky to help me sleep.
I still can’t figure out the time stuff and maybe I lost half a day or maybe I lived it twice. I got home about 8.30 in the evening and it was lovely to be back. I’ve slept well since returning and don’t appear to be jet lagged, am a bit tired and glad to be sleeping a bit better. Bonnie and Klaus’s condo didn’t exactly relax me with them in the room next door with their door wide open.
I had thought that this trip would be a form of punctuation in my bereavement but really it hasn’t changed a thing except maybe brought it all into closer focus. There were things I saw and did that resonated very strongly for me in terms of my relationship with Chris. At times the intensity of feeling almost had me in pieces.
At least the trip removed me from worrying about my job situation and one thing that’s very positive is that I feel confident I can deal with the outcome whatever it is. I will be angry if I am made redundant or messed around more than I have been already, but there’s a lot more to life than Bradford uni.
And did I say? Everything in Canada is very big!!
Some things I noticed:
There are an awful lot of cedar hedges around private homes in Vancouver.
House construction consists of a wooden internal frame where we would have breeze blocks.
I saw a lot of female public gardeners and a lot of gardeners generally.
Also a lot of female road construction stop/go sign twirlers.
Karin picked me up and we went for coffee in Ladner. She had a coffee concoction with turmeric and spices, I stuck to espresso!
Then we went to the George C Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary crossing an old wooden bridge to get there over the Fraser river. There were floating houses on the river, some of them big. We didn’t meet anyone walking around and saw geese, ducks, coots, a chickadee, blackbird with red bits, heron and others but not the scary aggressive crane.
Back to the condo where I dried off my gear and finished packing. Karin picked me up again so I said farewell to Klaus and off we went to Ladner exchange. Then goodbye to my friend.
Bus to Bridgeport, driver very interested in the election. Skytrain to wrong station but fortunately easily rectified. Finally to airport, very quiet and calm with comfy seats and lots of plants and water.
Got up relatively early and took the 601 bus, the Skytrain (2 mins of sky), the seabus, the 236 bus and arrived at the bottom of the mountain about 11. Then to my horror I couldn’t find Bonnie’s travel card which she had so kindly lent me. It would have been annoying if it had been my own card but absolutely mortifying because it was someone else’s. I turned out my pockets, checked the loo I’d been to…
It took ages to get a ticket for the gondola but once on the very squashed car, we whizzed up the mountain to about 1100m. I got a coffee and headed off to see the end of the grizzly bear “talk”. There was a woman talking electronically loudly for the assembled crowd. Then they all went away and I watched the bears for a bit, one of them was hot and cooling himself against the snow.
Next I moved a few yards across to the birds of prey demo. Rock music blasting away whist we waited, I’m not sure either bears or birds would like that. Quite a good demo, eagle, owl, falcon all flying about, not together, all well controlled.
I walked to the top of the mountain at 1200m, saw a man wearing my t shirt from Bruce in Manchester last May and a grouse who chattered and walked with me for a bit of a way.
After a few minutes I decided to skip the lumberjack demo! It was very crap.
Sandwich not very nice but at least the view was good. 10 minutes of movie about bears.
Back down on the gondola. Met a couple from Birmingham, Pete and Sharon who were on their adventures. We travelled together until I left for the Skytrain and had a pleasant interlude together. They had done a small cruise of 80 passengers in Alaska and had seen lots of wildlife with Uncruise.
It took a while to get back, quick in and out. Fred picked me up. Spent a lovely evening with him and Karen, seeing their beautiful home and garden, eating and drinking spicy chicken sausages, BBQ aubergine and courgette and salad. We walked to the ocean and I stood in the USA so I have entered and exited all within a few seconds. They have been so good to me and taken me to places I just wouldn’t have found on my own.
Nice easy day. Karin picked me up and we went to the sea at Crescent Beach. Good lunch in little resto with windows wide open to the street. I had crab cakes with salad. These tasted more of crab.
We walked about and saw a heron and a rabbit. Coastal and slightly marshy land.
Then to White Rock with a good view to Mount Baker which is over 3200m. A nice clean seaside town, a bit hippy, reminded me a little of Borth but with sun and warmth.
Saw eagles just hanging about. One has built a nest on an electricity pylon.
We went in the new mall at Tsawwassen. It is huge with huge shops, well Outdoor World was huge and had lots of hunting and fishing equipment including I think an enormous array of guns. We looked at coolers that can keep your food cool for days, Yetis but not cars! Some things very good value and others much the same. I can see why those who live close to the border do their grocery and fuel shopping in the US.
Things I like include excellent plumbing, sensible one knob shower taps, strong sucky loos! Receiving directions for walking that are by compass points and an expectation they will be understood. Portion sizes seem to be mostly big. Salads are amazing.
I still haven’t quite worked out how the driving at intersections goes so probably won’t use a bike, will see if I can make sense of it first.
Klaus and Bonnie gave me a lift to Bridgeport bus station at great speed which I really didn’t enjoy. Why is it that nearly every holiday abroad involves a speed merchant at some point? I took the bus to the University of British Columbia which has a massive campus. Asked a chap re correct stop and he offered to point me in north west direction (I love that people use the points of the compass to give directions, must try this at home, ha ha!!) then a woman said I could walk with her. We had a pleasant 7 minute chat/walk about our Virtual Learning Environments! She is a classics teacher and does some of it online. When she went off she said to walk through the parkade, well I didn’t know what to expect, was it a type of park or was it a type of car park? I still don’t know because it was a mini park on top of a car park! Update – Karin says it’s a car park with at least 2 stories.
I spent several hours in MoA, which is excellent and different from the Victoria museum. It’s built on some WW2 concrete defenses. I went straight to the cafe as had not had a coffee. Also had a lunch of quinoa and coconut salad there. Ok, a bit dry.
It took nearly two hours to get back by bus and I managed to spot my stop ok. Popped out for supplies.
Karin and Fred picked me up in the big truck, Nissan V8 Titan! Lovely! We went up to North Vancouver and walked across a suspension bridge (not the Capilano bridge but good for me as not too long and scary and also no charge). A lot of people out on a beautiful Sunday. We walked all around Rice Lake. From one point the drinking water drops down for a mile.
Then to look at the Cleveland dam on Capilano Lake, this is near to the foot of Grouse mountain and the start of the Grouse Grind. The walk is shut until 12th June. From the dam you can see up to the two lions on the top.
We dropped down into the top of Stanley Park crossing over the Lions Gate bridge which is just brilliant, see picture. A lot of people were out in the sun on the beaches.
Out of the park past English Bay which was where we got to on Friday. Over the Burrard bridge, into where the university is and the Museum of Anthropology so I know for tomorrow.
Back to Kitsilano to The Naam restaurant. We had such a good meal. I had a Mexi Dragon Bowl which was rice, veggies, miso gravy. The resto is veggie, organic and open 24 hours and good on prices. Great atmosphere of calm and good food.
K and F took me home, a lovely day out. There is so much more to Vancouver than the downtown area.
Breakfast of pancakes, poached egg and baked beans and maple syrup in the Two Parrots opposite the Ramada. This was a cheap and cheerful cafe. Totally stuffed. It was like being in an American cop show because a policeman came in and arrested a customer. He gave him a good working over outside, to see what he was carrying as opposed to beating him up. Wandered down to the docks and saw Grouse Mountain and enormous cruise ship. Back to hotel and farewells to the rest of the group.
Karin and Fred turned up and off we went. They showed me Gastown and then we went to Commercial Drive, both nice areas, much nicer than Downtown. Fred told me a lot of history of the areas, great tour guide! We went to Havana resto and I had the Havana salad which was great and had everything in it, guacamole, salsa, beans, cheese…
Drove across to the peninsula to look at the area, Ladner village and then Boundary Bay where K and F live. The bottom of the peninsula is below the 49th Parallel so is one of I think 3 parts of the USA not accessible from the USA. I have an urge to stand over the border just to say I have been to the US of A.
Then they kindly took me to my B&B which is a room in a condominium with Bonnie and Klaus. K and F went off.
First got my laundry done then they took me to the supermarket and showed me bus stops and so on. Very welcoming and friendly.
Talking with Bonnie, her sister died from amyloidosis. Strange the cards that fate plays.
They have a lot of birds who visit. A crested jay and a hummingbird have been since I arrived. I can expect to see bald eagles popping in! Expect all I liked, they didn’t.
Site with interesting things about old Vancouver buildings.