Switzerland August 2019 Pt 1

Friday

It took me hours to pack my bags. It felt very strange to be setting off for a holiday with no Carol to see me off. No-one to give the contact details to.

I went on the Grand Central train from Halifax to King’s Cross. I sat with a couple of actively retired vicars from Halifax. They told me about their 4 sons. The wife vicar was Swiss and delighted that I was travelling to Switzerland!

I walked to my hotel on the edge of Russell Square in the heat. My room was on the top, 7th floor and was even hotter than outside, no air con but noisy from lots of huge air con units in the courtyard below. Also smelly from frying in the kitchen.

The first thing I noticed in the room was that a person could climb out of the window. Not a good way to go.

I got on the bed and promptly fell fast asleep.

Then I went to Waitrose in the Brunswick centre to buy breakfast. I have to leave too early to get the hotel breakfast.

Back for more dozing then out to Carluccio’s for beer, cheese and pea salad and veggie balls with hummous, broccoli, tomato and a very thin crispy bread thing. All very nice. This ended up as the best dinner of the holiday. They asked me if I had any allergies. Guess this is after the Pret mess.

If I ever do anything like this again I’ll book my own hotel, a Premier Inn would have been fine.

Opposite the President hotel off Russell Square
Delicious!

Saturday

I was too hot to sleep well. Got up at 5 and took a taxi to St. Pancreas. The driver was way too chatty for so early.

Met the tour leader, Philip and some of the party of 31. First of several reminders to be vigilant, a lesson from being gay for 40 years is that you always have eyes in the back of your head and assess situations quickly, at least I do, survival.

Sat next to Jim from Kansas. Ate my fresh fruit and yoghurt.

Once at the Gare du Nord we walked round to the Gare de l’Est. I bought a salad in M&S which I had on the TGV, still sitting next to Jim.

Arrived mid afternoon in Strasbourg. Nice clean and cool hotel Mercure opposite station. The room was on the 4th floor and was even easier to fall out of than the President in London.

I went and looked at the cathedral which was heaving. Got told off for not taking my cap off. I suspect God has better things to worry about but of course I apologised and took it off. I find people taking selfies more bothersome. Some people had gone in just to sit and fiddle with their phones.

We went to a restaurant very near to the hotel called Le Dix. I sat at the wrong table with an 80 year old bigot. What fun. Thankfully I wasn’t the only one who found his opinions didn’t go down well. He was anti vegetarians and vegans. Kept repeating the same “joke” endlessly, about 10 times. Made unsatisfactory comments about queers.

For my dinner I had veggie quiche, aubergine tomato cheese thing, would be great on cold winter day! Fruit tart. Small glass of beer courtesy of my new Welsh friend Adrian.

On Eurostar
Never forget

Strasbourg

Strasbourg cathedral

Sunday

Nice buffet breakfast. Fruit, yoghurt, rye bread, cheese, tomato, juice, coffee. This turned out to be the best breakfast of the holiday.

Trotted off to Les Ponts Couverts which I expected to be enclosed but they were not. Perhaps they had been in the past. It was nice walking before it got too hot. I tagged onto a random tour group briefly. At a bakery the leader said this is where I buy my bread, it’s very good, there was a queue out the door so I got a sandwich from them which was ok.

Returned to hotel to reconvene. We got on a very comfortable train to Basel, then crossed on foot into Switzerland at last, got stern looks from the frontier guards.

Train 2 took us Interlaken Ost. From there train 3 to Lauterbrunnen and then the smallest train up up up to Wengen. No vehicles are allowed in the village except for the electric truck that took all the bags and some of the less mobile people up to the Grand Hotel Belvedere which is grand to look at. They let a few small vans in but no private vehicles.

My room is on the top floor, fabulous views, top notch for cleanliness, lovely clean air, smell of woodsmoke. I actually felt something like happy. The first time. The windows are the worst yet for safety.

Dinner was a help yourself buffet, I had salad, pasta and creamy veg, cheese and dark bread. Ok but not haut cuisine.

Monday

Breakfast buffet, I had fruit (tinned, WTF?!) and yoghurt, cheese and bread and coffee.

I walked through the village, getting cash on the way. The co-op for salad and a nectarine.

I set off for Wengernalp but it was hot so I got halfway and hopped on the train at Allmend. Had a conversation entirely in German giving some directions to an elderly woman. At Wengernalp (1880 m) I wandered about until I found a quiet bench to eat my salad. The salad was very boring, needed a dressing. I found the dressing sachet at the bottom of the box, so the last third was ok. I started to walk back down and chatted to a Swiss woman keen to practise her English. Then I met a young Canadian who was an absolute delight. We took photos for each other. She restored my faith in humanity. I got back to Allmend and got the train back from there.

Bimbled about. Lipton’s apple and cinnamon tea in my room.

Dinner: salads, quiche and gnocchi and green beans, fruit mousse.

Went with Jude and Chris to sit near the church and watch the sun go down on the mountain. Popped in church, immediate feeling of calm and peace. Watched hang glider come down off mountain in rapidly failing light, bit scary to watch but we think they landed ok.

Enormous fireplace in the hotel

Allmend station

Tuesday

After breakfast of fruit and yoghurt and a boiled egg, we went up to Männlichen by big cable car from Wengen. I then walked another 100m of ascent to the peak at 2345m. Back down to the village to catch the train to Lauterbrunnen. From Lauterbrunnen to Zweilütschinen, from Zweilütschinen to Grindelwald. I popped in the co-op for another salad and then through the village to the small but very long cable car rising from 1034m to 2168m. I had my picnic at the top, did a bit of the “cliff walk” a metal path dangling over precipitous drops and then back down, getting a car to myself. As I got into the car an alarm went off and a man ran across to the controls. The alarm stopped and I went off down the mountain. A car coming up contained Tony and we waved at each other. He later told me that on his descent, there was an announcement about a problem and that passengers were to remain calm in the cars. The upshot of this story is that nothing further happened and he was safely brought to land without having to dangle. However this is one of my worst nightmares!

Back in Grindelwald I had my first ever iced coffee, it was ok, not sure if I want lots more of them but it worked well in the heat.

Too hot so I, and others from our party, took the train to Kleine Scheidigg and then another back to Wengen.

Salad, goulash, mousse. Sat with Adrian and Mark outside.

Indeed!

Lofoten Islands Part 3

Monday 27th

Today we got on the bus with our nice driver to go to Fiskebol. Drove onto the ferry for the half hour trip to Melbu on Hadseloya.

A good walk on a different island. Slowly going up to a lake which had cabins that seemed only accessible by boat but maybe there was a hidden track up there. Then the rain arrived just as we stopped for lunch. The first rain that landed on me so far this trip despite this being a very rainy place.

We went up to a small summit for some great 360 views. Then on a wet boggy soggy path back down to Melbu.

Bus, ferry to hotel. I turned up the bathroom floor heating to 40. Hot feet! The hotel is totally unprepared for walkers, so all drying is done in the rooms. All the rooms are the same size so I’m fine but this must be very tight for those who are sharing, especially with lots of wet gear.

No plug in the washbasin, I didn’t bring mine, thinking Norway, plug, no don’t be ridiculous. Wrong. Making do with the top of my deodorant. We have sensor controlled taps which are also most annoying when you are trying to fill the basin.

We think this is an owl’s feather

On Barheia

Svolvaer

Tuesday 28th

We walked about 10 minutes to the ferry to take us to Skrova. About a 25 minute journey from Svolvaer. My friend Inger tells me her great great grandmother came from Skrova. It’s a very lovely island and a working island dedicated to the fish, although that work has finished now for the season.

We walked first to a jetty and looked out to sea, then to a beach with jellyfish, I hadn’t seen any before, they are most odd and look so harmless. While we were there a pair of sea eagles did several fly pasts.

Next to a small viewpoint so we could get a good 360 view from the island, magnificent.

Then to another amazing spot for lunch, looking at sea and rocks.

We went to the tunnels to see a photographic exhibition of island life. Finished up with a hot chocolate (this one nice) in a cafe at the harbour while we waited for the ferry back.

A woman passed us on a bicycle holding a bunch of flowers, she stopped and offered them to us to smell. Honeysuckle and a deep blue lavender. Such a lovely thing to do.

Packing.

Dinner, and prolonged farewells. I am very glad to have met Penny and John, they helped me to have a lovely holiday.

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Skrova

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Looking back to Svolvaer

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Cat man, why so many cats?

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Wednesday 29th

Up at 5 and horribly conscious that this will be 4 later on. On bus at 6. Linda helped me to get my bag down the stairs. Breakfast boxes to take on the bus. I opted for veggie but this seems to be simply carrots, radish, cucumber, apple. Did a swop of orange for cheese. Boxes then supplemented with further boxes of bread and jam. Coffee to take out.

  • Coach 2.5 hours to Evenes airport
  • Plane 1.5 hours to Oslo
  • Plane 2 hours to Heathrow
  • Tube 1 hour to King’s Cross
  • Train 2.25 hours to Leeds
  • Train 1 hour to Sowerby Bridge
  • Taxi 15 mins home

A long day and cream crackered, but fantastic that in 15.5 hours I can get from above the Arctic circle to home. Arrived just after 8.30.

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From the bus

Lofoten Islands Part 2

Friday 24th

This day started well with sunshine over the water. Looked stunning.

On Vestvagoya and Gimsoya islands today. On the bus for an hour and a bit to Haukland beach. White sands. We’d dropped off the people doing the harder walk. We walked up and over a col to reach the white sands beach on the other side at Utakleiv. We had lunch on picnic benches. Some of the easier group were continuing to walk along the beach and some of us got back onto the coach to go to the Viking museum. This was very good. A Viking longhouse had been uncovered and a replica created. After watching the rubbishy film and looking at the artefacts, I went for a boat trip in a Viking boat which was fun. George was with me, a nice young chap. I looked after a boy whose mother could not come because they only allowed 12 at a time. Then George and I did some archery and some axe throwing. We walked back up to the museum.

I was chatting with Penny and John when very suddenly felt very ill. Went to the loo, massive sweat, almost spraying out of me. And then I collapsed, passed out completely. Luckily there was someone in the loos who got help. I came to and managed to get decent and open the door. Very very wobbly so they put me in a wheelchair. Wheeled back to where we’d been sitting. Someone said the word “sick” and I promptly obliged making a horrible puddle on the museum floor.

The bus took us back to the hotel and I went straight to bed although shivered violently for an hour. Still out of it, brushed my teeth with moisturizer just to make a terrible time even worse! Felt weak. I was sick twice more and then slept till morning. The poison is all out of my body but I banged my elbow (same one as I injured in June) and have hurt my ribs, I think from the fall, very painful, hard bending, getting out of bed.

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Haukland beach

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Irritating Viking woman who asked me if I made my own soap!

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Viking longhouse

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Utakleiv beach

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Real Viking boat!

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Real Viking

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Axe throwing

Saturday 25th

Managed to shower. Had some melon and yoghurt. Rang the doctor re my ribs pain and he said take combination of paracetamol and ibuprofen. He said it would hurt for a lot of days!

Had a crispbread and a tiny bit of slightly sweet cream cheese. Also a pancake and raspberry jam.

The view of yesterday’s drama is that it was something in my lunch. I had bread, cheese, salami, tomato and some nuts. All except the nuts, prepackaged. So I think they were the culprit.

Little walk to do some shopping. Feeling sleepy.

Slept some more. Out again to the shops.

Dinner of salads, pork and veg and mashed potato and apple pie.

Out to look at the Hurtigruten Lofoten ship which I will be on in March. Then the war museum which is a huge private collection from the Nazi occupation. Includes an enigma machine and some paintings supposedly by Hitler.

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This lights up after dark

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Rorbuer near hotel

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House made from fishing racks?

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Hurtigruten Lofoten boat

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NSU motorbike, my first and most useless car was an NSU (I paid £60 for it)

Sunday 26th

Today we walked from Apnes to Stamsund. This was a great walk with fabulous views all round.

I had a hot chocolate in the bar at Stamsund which wasn’t very nice.

Dinner of salads, beef goulash and desserts.

Short walk to Svinvoya to look at rorbuer and bust of Gunnar Berg.

Cloudberry, delicious

This will become an emperor moth

So windy I’m holding onto the cairn so as not to be blown away

Trump and Kim Jong Un in car

Svolvaer

Svolvaer

The Lofoten Islands August 2018 Part 1

This is another trip that Chris and I had hoped to do together. It’s fitting that I’m flying out on what would have been her 65th birthday.

Tuesday 21st

My journey to Heathrow was easy, all to plan. I spent my senior Railcard and split ticket savings on a first class seat from Leeds. Very comfortable, complementary food and drinks. I had orange juice, pasta salad, crisps and shortbread. The air con was too powerful and I ended up with my hood up I was so cold. Lovely and warm in London. After the tube to the airport I got on a free red bus to the Radisson on Bath Road. Very nice hotel, decent sized room. I had my M&S salads, went for a lager and watched Allo Allo (never seen it before but so silly, made me laugh) and Die Another Day (not seen this one either, how did I miss it?) on the telly.

Wednesday 22nd

The travel all went well but boy oh boy what a long day, it was easier getting to Canada. Left hotel at 7.45, straight to T2 for breakfast. Heathrow to Oslo 2 hours. Oslo to Harstad Narvik Evenes airport 1.5 hours. For an airport with so many names, ours was the only plane there. Then there were lots of people in the terminal. Maybe it’s the happening place. Off quickly on a big bus for 2.5 hours. Lovely scenery. A bit of rain and cool. Arrived Svolvaer on Austvagoya island at 8.20. Buffet dinner, salads, chicken, potato and veg, various yummy puddings. Introduction talk from Howard and Feli. Lager in memory of Chris and because I like lager. Jeg elsker pils. Unpacking took ages. And then whiskey – a half plastic bottle of Grouse which was very reasonable from Oslo duty free, for medicinal purposes!

Harstad Narvik Evenes airport

Airport

Thursday 23rd

Breakfast buffet was a bit bonkers with no set route around the different stations. I had salami and cheese on rye with sweet gherkins. I made up a crispbread and pate sandwich with gherkins and tomatoes for lunch.

Howard took us for a 15 minute tour of the town to show us the cash point, bakery, post office and supermarkets.

Set off with Feli for the hard walk. Out the town then up a steep climb to Tjeldberg-tinden at 367m. Very windy on ridge. Option to go up a gully with a rope. I walked round with some others. Lunch overlooking islands. Steep down and then lots of boggy bits. Into village of Kabelvag and to Storvagan. Got bus from Kabelvag back to Svolvaer.

To supermarket to get lager at half price of hotel.

Buffet dinner. Lamb for me, very tender. Small plate of desserts this evening.

Storvagan

Storvagan

Hill we climbed and some of our group

From the bridge that goes to our hotel

Svolvaer

Rocca Sparviera 22/02/18

Last day. Mountain drive up some more interesting roads with either no barrier or such a small one that it seems pointless. To Col de Lobe then Rocca Sparviera mediaeval village and chapel. Saw lots of wolf droppings also those of wild boar. The wolf had been eating the boar as some droppings were mainly boar hair. Golden eagle. We wore the ice grippers for a bit. It had been hot when we did this walk last year, this time started off in 3 layers and increased to 5. We walked about 15km.

Back down to the bar in Lantosque for St. Thomas beer. Then home to pack up.

Dinner chez Liz and Mel. Chili popcorn, tomato and mozzarella type cheese called burrata and basil, couscous with veg and meatballs in sauce, cheeses, chocolate and ginger mousse. All excellent.

Holiday is courtesy of Liz and Mel of Spacebetween.

From the fire of 2003

First cowslips

Wolf tracks

Rocca Sparviera

Bathtime

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