Lake District – Page 7

Hartsop Dodd

A leisurely start to the day including coffee at Lancaster services where I also bought a sandwich and a packet of crisps in M&S. I’d spotted Hartsop Dodd a couple of weeks ago and it took my fancy. I knew it would be steep straight away and it was a stiff climb. I took a breather after about a 100m of climbing for a call of nature whereupon I piddled all over my camera case. Considering it was holding my new camera, you will be glad to know that the case is waterproof! I’ve now washed it and will be giving it a squirt of Nikwax!
It took about an hour to get to the top of the Dodd so I stopped and had half my lunch. I wanted a longer walk so decided to carry on up to Stony Cove Pike (also known as Caudale Moor). I could see over to Thornthwaite Crag beacon which soon became obscured by mist. Although the mist loomed all day, I managed to miss it all which was great as I didn’t have to keep changing clothes. However one of my objectives was to have to navigate in mist but hey ho you can’t win ’em all!
The drop from Stony Cove down to Threshthwaite col is very steep indeed and basically 100m of scrambling which was great fun. I stopped at the bottom of the scramble and had the rest of my lunch.
Then it was down via Pasture Beck all the way back to the car. The path was much wetter than a fortnight back, more like a stream most of the way.
Good weather, good climb, good scramble descent, lovely.

Hartsop Dodd

Looking back

On top of the Dodd

Herdwick sheep

Lowering clouds

Nearly back

Not sure what these are for

[googlemaps https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Hartsop,+United+Kingdom&aq=0&oq=hartsop&sll=53.793463,-2.063957&sspn=0.018151,0.060339&t=p&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Hartsop,+Cumbria,+United+Kingdom&ll=54.509772,-2.913351&spn=0.014949,0.025749&z=14&iwloc=A&output=embed&w=300&h=300]

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Thornthwaite Crag and Gray Crag

I set off somewhat later than planned and only arrived at the free (honesty box for donations to the school) car park in Hartsop at 11.45. Only 2 and a quarter hours to get to the centre of the Lakes with no stopping for coffee. The walk along Pasture Beck is a good warm up, and pretty to boot, just contouring along the valley. At the head there is a bit of a climb and then it’s a short section of scree from the shoulder with Stoney Cove Pike. That’s the one that Wainwright refers to as Caudale Moor which is just annoying as the Pike is a perfectly good name and is the summit. This time I headed east up to Thornthwaite Crag which has a great beacon to mark it. This looks a bit like some of the ones I saw over in the Dales. I wondered if it’s connected with the Roman road. I also wondered if you can get a Roman map of the Lake District as they must have made some.
I chatted with some fellas and one of them took my photo on my camera so for once on a solo expedition there is a picture of me but even though I showed him the zoom control and he claimed to be a photographer, his efforts are fairly rubbish.
I could have whizzed up to High Street and back down that way but although I’m fond of it, I opted to bag another Wainwright and come down Gray Crag. This was a long, broad ridge and even though the map had a path that just stopped, I decided to go for it anyway as AW had said it was possible. There were signs that it was a maintained path, just a narrow one and the path did exist for real on the ground.
The weather was good, a bit of sun, a bit of cloud, a bit of wind and a bit of cool on the top.

Looking back towards Hartsop

Beacon on top of Thornthwaite Crag

Bloody useless photographer!

Hayeswater and my boots

Descent to Hartsop

Hayeswater Gill

My horseshoe

[googlemaps https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Hartsop,+United+Kingdom&aq=0&oq=hartsop&sll=53.66049,-2.04408&sspn=0.018208,0.060339&t=p&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Hartsop,+Cumbria,+United+Kingdom&ll=54.509772,-2.913351&spn=0.014949,0.025749&z=14&iwloc=A&output=embed&w=300&h=300]

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Grisedale Pike 010511

Woke up nice and early and got the coffee on. We piddled about a bit and had our yoghurt and compote and muesli breakfast, followed by more coffee. Before long we were on the way to Braithwaite via the Whinlatter Pass. We parked up off the road as by this time the car parks were quite busy. A short hop up to the start of the walk at the first car park. Up steps for a steep section and then a fairly leisurely meander along until Sleet How. There were a few other parties on the fell, including a group carrying up a rather large baby.
At the steep section near the top it had become increasingly windy and gusty. A woman coming down seemed a bit antsy and then a young couple coming down said it was even worse at the top. We were at this point nearly at the top. As we got up both Chris and I had to get down on all fours to get our centres of gravity as low to the ground as possible. I used my pole to get more anchorage too. We made it up and then took respite against the wall of rock on the summit. The summit is very pointy and fortunately we weren’t sharing it with anyone. However thanks to bending so low, my map, which had been secured by only my rucksack belt, had taken off in the wind, never to be seen again. I was sorry about this, as the map case had been a present from Carol but also because I didn’t like not having the map.
After we had got our breath and wits back, we made our way down to the shelter for lunch, samosa for me, gala pie for Chris and shared some salad. I had brought Mr Wainwright up on this walk, despite his weight and this helped us with mapping.
We decided not to carry on to Hopegill Head as it was too windy. So instead wound our way down the top of the valley and back past old mine workings to Braithwaite along a long miners’ track.
We came out at the other side of the car park from which we’d started, back to the car and then drove it up to the now nearly empty car park and brewed up a cup of tea and finished off our cake!
Returned home stopping at Tebay for more supplies.

I have assured Carol that we did make a sensible decision despite appearances and that our route was well designed as we had no further wind problems because of direction of travel. I can’t say the same for the party that subjected a baby to such conditions, nor for those who were descending via that route. At least the wind was pretty much pushing us against the mountain and the unpleasantness was for a very short amount of time.

700m ascent

Quite a lot of along too but can’t measure it right this minute as have no map!

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At the Bradleys’ camp site

Grisedale Pike that way

From the summit, holding on tight to camera

Safe in the shelter

Wind woman, in more ways than one!

Swirly path down

Chris descending

We were just there

Wake me up when we get down

I know you are laughing even though my eyes are shut!

We were up there too

Nice cup of tea, Gromit

Wow, another big achievement!

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Bowscale Tarn and Bowscale Fell 300411

Got up early and over to Tod by 8 to collect Chris. Left promptly, stopping at Lancaster services to stock up at M&S. A quick coffee and off to Mungisdale. Parked up, did huge amount of pfaffing and set off for the tarn. Quite windy but sunny and dry. Lunched on tuna nicoise, very nice, and watched a very foolish person going up the side of the tarn on a very difficult route where there isn’t really a path. They seemed to manage it though. We also watched a couple of other people take the route we were planning to do which looks much steeper from the bottom than when you are on it.
A little while later, we tackled it, it’s a short sharp way to the top and was fine except for being very windy which was a bit unnerving. However before long, we had reached the top and it was then a fairly short step up to the top of the fell. We came down on the other side which kept us out of the wind a bit and landed us right in the village next to the pub.
After a mix up with a cyclist taking Chris’ beer, we headed back along the road to the pub. On the way there was a national garden open so we popped in and had a lovely time, with me not knowing any plant names and Chris knowing quite a few. Mr had put various quirky sculptures round the garden so it was a bit like a treasure hunt. He clearly had an obsession about wood piles which was fine with me.
Finally got back to the car, drove round to the Bradley’s farm at Low Cock How and put up our tents in the garden on a nice flat bit of grass that wasn’t too dry so a bit springy.
Then we cooked up chicken green Thai curry and rice for dinner and ate this in the campers’ kitchen which suffered from an attack of hair, possibly dog or even horse.
A quick trip to the Shepherd’s Rest Hotel for beer, this turned out to be the wrong pub and we should really have gone to the Fox and Hounds as the Shepherds doesn’t review well. Our beer was fine.
Totally knackered so back to the camp for tea with Chris’ special rum.
We both did more sleeping than waking so perhaps not too bad a night really for camping.

At the tarn

Before the ascent

Bowscale Tarn

The tarn

Riding the wind

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Save

Lakes March/April 2011

Saturday 26th March
Arrived in Longsleddale in the early afternoon. We are staying in the Coach House at Capplebarrow which is near the middle of the dale, just a few yards from the church and the village hall which are the only things in the dale apart from farms and houses. The River Sprint runs along the side of the single track road and we can see it from the Coach House. The Coach House is small and compact. There is the most enormous bed meaning we will have to send semaphore signals to each other. Very neat Morso wood burner that kicks out huge amount of heat, it compensates for the fan heater that only gives us 3 minutes in the shower room. After getting settled in we went for a short circuit along towards the head of the valley and then back along the far side of the river.
[googlemaps https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Longsleddale,+South+Lakeland+District,+United+Kingdom&aq=1&oq=longsleddale&sll=53.976128,-1.702121&sspn=0.015901,0.052314&t=p&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Longsleddale,+Cumbria,+United+Kingdom&ll=54.440399,-2.790184&spn=0.029949,0.051498&z=13&iwloc=A&output=embed&w=300&h=300]

Sunday 27th March
Green Quarter
First day of forward clocks. We drove the first 3.5 km from our lodgings to Sadgill. Parked up. Lots of cars where before when I’ve been here there were none. Up a lovely stony track with burbling streams. Came across a vintage Land Rover mini rally. About 6 of them all trying to come down very steep bouldery part of path. Bloody bonkers but they seemed to be enjoying themselves. Seemed a risky thing to do to such beautifully preserved vehicles. Short stop where junction to Shipman Knotts and Kentmere Pike turns off. Then away across the fell to Green Quarter. This is tiny hamlet next to Kentmere village. Out the other side and back onto the fell. Stopped for lunch looking over to Kentmere Tarn in the vale. On up to Green Quarter Fell. Passed Skeggles Water. This bit was quite bleak. Then on up Cocklaw Fell now overlooking our Longsleddale valley which is nice and green. On the homeward stretch with car in sight. Flapjack made by me v. good for keeping up energy levels as v. delicious.

[googlemaps https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Green+Quarter,+United+Kingdom&aq=2&oq=green+quarter&sll=54.424922,-2.784004&sspn=0.062916,0.209255&t=p&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Kentmere,+Cumbria,+United+Kingdom&ll=54.430165,-2.840137&spn=0.014978,0.025749&z=14&iwloc=A&output=embed&w=300&h=300]

Monday 28th March

Harter Fell

It’s about an hour and a bit to drive a mere handful of miles because we are not crows. Parked up at Mardale Head. Free car park. Set off up Gatescarth Pass. After 20 mins I realised I’d left my iPhone on full view in the car. I left Mr B and raced down and back in 22 mins! We plodded on and eventually arrived at the head of the pass. I also realised half way up that I’d left my lunch in the kitchen at the cottage. I considered pretending I’d only just found out when we sat to eat but instead fessed up feeling now very very stupid. Mr B kindly agreed to share his lunch with me and I gratefully accepted. We found a little hollow out of the wind and I ate half his lunch. After a bit more climbing we reached the summit of Harter Fell. Much colder on the tops. Headed off west to find the Nan Bield Pass. Some fairly challenging sections for Mr B height and exposure wise. It all went fine and we easily found the head of the pass. Mr B shared his Twix with me to give us a boost for the descent. It took a while but we got back down without further incident. Mr Bs first Wainwright and a jolly good one in perfect weather.

Towards High Street

Haweswater

On top of Harter Fell

Me too

Smallwater

Smallwater from the Nan Bield Pass

On the Nan Bield Pass

[googlemaps https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Harter+Fell,+Longsleddale,+South+Lakeland+District,+United+Kingdom&aq=0&oq=harter+fell&sll=54.430176,-2.840161&sspn=0.015727,0.052314&t=p&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Harter+Fell&ll=54.476023,-2.834988&spn=0.029923,0.051498&z=13&iwloc=A&output=embed&w=300&h=300]

Tuesday 29th March

Not a very good day for walking so we went to Kendal and wandered round a lot, then went on to Sedbergh and looked at second hand bookshops

Kendal

Wednesday 30th March

Hugill Fell

This is an “outlying fell” according to Wainwright. Very wet so kept it short. Managed to stay dry with all the gear. Annoyingly it seems to be drier in afternoon which is not what forecast said. We didn’t bother looking at Williamson’s monument as it was too hard to get over wall plus high fence.

Wet

Very wet

Mafioso sheep

Thursday 31st March

It was so wet the Sprint had burst its banks in several places. Neither of us feeling like walking in the downpour so we went to Ambleside and Windermere for the day. It had finally brightened up in the evening enabling us to do a longer circuit in Longsleddale going further towards the head of the valley, looking up at Harter Fell.

The Coach House (the small building)

Cute now but may well turn into EVIL sheep

Longsleddale

Longsleddale church, sorry but this made me roar with laughing

Friday 1st April

More rain in the morning so we went to the Abbot Hall Gallery in Kendal which was good. Too early for the Sheila Fell exhibition though.

Eating Out

The Wheatsheaf at Brigsteer

The food was quite good but we had to wait oh so long for it I was nearly climbing the wall.

Both had braised beef, why this has to come in a little round I don’t know. Horseradish mash was good. Not enough gravy as meat a bit dry. Mushrooms and shallots tasty. Braised red cabbage so vinegary I coughed on every mouthful. But cauli and broccoli cheese yummy.

Deja Vue in Kendal

My meal was fine, I had celeriac for a starter and then a filo pastry and beetroot mille feuille. Mr B ordered tuna and it came and just was not right so he sent it back. He ate some chips and then we went home and he had a nice sandwich with ham. So a mixed bag, suspect it’s best not to bother with this one again.

Eating In

We cheated on the first evening and had pots of risotto which were fine and did the job.

I made Green Thai chicken curry with basmati rice. Fab!

Also an omelette with various bits and pieces, this was a bit dry as I had not quite got the measure of the electric cooker.

We had pasta bolognese twice, slightly different each time, but very nice.
Oh and I made more flapjack this time with apple and it didn’t really stick together so more like sticky granola. I will continue to experiment with the flapjack recipe as it’s so much nicer than buying an energy bar and a lot cheaper.

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