Bath 7th May 2011

We’ve just got back from Bath where we went to a family wedding which was really lovely. Part of the fun was an old London bus which transported us from the Guildhall where the ceremony took place to Oldfield Park for the reception and included a proper tour of the city. These are my photos from the bus. We also went for a walk in the rain in the evening and looked at St. Mary Magdalen chapel on Holloway, which is very ancient and then up to Beechen Cliff where we would have had a great view if it hadn’t been for the rain.

The Circus
Entrance to Victoria Park
Fares please!
St. Mary Magdalen Chapel, Holloway
Dingly dell up to Beechen Cliff
From Beechen Cliff

We stayed in the Hollies, a rival establishment to Athole House, it was fine, bed comfortable, quiet despite being on the main road and run by a couple of ageing queens who are just a tad pernickety (this is how you operate the curtain, this is where the light switch is….) and not a patch on Athole. They didn’t supply fruit tea or provide me with a croissant when asked, however Josephine and Wolfgang from Athole House did give me a fruit tea or 3 which were very nice!!

We ate in the Hop Pole on the Friday evening and had just as nice a meal and customer service as before, the staff are noticeably friendly and obliging. Also had a small salady meal on the Saturday evening at Ritchers Bistro which had similarly friendly staff, in fact even passers by in Bath are friendly!
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Wild Boar Fell 280411

I’m sleeping very well, was out like a light and woke at 7. Yelly gave me muesli and yoghurt and bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms and a double espresso.
Set off to Kirkby Stephen and went back to the Post Office for another ristretto. My order was remembered as so few people know what it is!
On the way to the walk I stopped at Pendragon Castle which sounds like it’s made up but is just a ruinous old ruin in a lovely spot with purple flowers on the ramparts. There’s not much to it really.
I parked up and set off having to micro nav the first section where there was no path. It worked out and I got onto a track which wound up to Little Fell where there is a row of 5 cairns overlooking the valley.
Next was Lower Dolphinsty and Higher Dolphinsty. Not a dolphin to be had up here.
Just carried on up the escarpment until nearly at the top and was about to take a short cut to the trig point but then decided to do the extra 5m to the tumulus. I spotted a whole long row of cairns on the edge of the fell which I would not have seen if I’d short cut. So I headed round to the cairn row. There are about 12 of them with a fence in the middle of them. They’re in a most impressive location overlooking the valley. Not as big as the 9 Standards.
From the cairns across to the trig and then back to another old old cairn for lunch. Cheese and cucumber today and a pear and an apple. I don’t like pears but ate it anyway as very juicy but it still tasted of pear drops!
It was pretty chilly in the wind up top but sunny all walk. I only saw 2 people in 4 hours.
I got back down quite quickly.
A nice easy walk and my knee much better for it. No gip today.
Whatever you do, do not buy Sainsbury blister plasters in the expectation they will be like Compeed. Do not be seduced by a BOGOF as they are totally shit. I can’t say enough how rubbish they are.
I went to the Cross Keys Temperance Inn for my dinner. This was quite an experience, as I walked into what was basically a sitting room full of people the Maitre d’ declared “Ah you’re the one!” as in table for one. Despite this, the other 2 tables with largish parties were pleasant and the proprietor was kind and told me about the Quaker and the Temperance history of the inn. He’s a Quaker and the inn is owned by the National Trust. You can bring your own booze and there’s no corkage charge. I had pate followed by beef stroganof. Dinner was nice but pricey compared with the previous evening. The proprietor gave some of his pals huge shots of whisky and I wished I’d been a pal but probably just as well not as had to drive a few miles back to Ravenstonedale.
 
10km

370m ascent
 
Pendragon Castle

 

Bits of castle
Wild Boar Fell
Cairns on Wild Boar
Cairns
Row of five
Hungry lambo
View from my window
 

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The Nine Standards 270411

I can remember hearing about these years ago and then was reminded more recently whilst watching Julia Bradbury on the C2C.

I hadn’t even taken in that they were so near to where I’m staying.
I woke at 7 and made a cup of tea. At 8.30 went down for a big breakfast of muesli and yoghurt followed by 2 very nice poached eggs on toast and grilled tomatoes and beans. Yelly gave me espresso so full marks for that. And a big packed lunch in case of danger of going more than an hour without food.
So I went into Kirkby Stephen and pootled for quite a surprising amount of time. I bought eye drops and batteries and went for a great ristretto in the Post Office which is the old Catholic church and has nice deli type food for sale.  Also put my head in the church which is jointly used by Catholics and Anglicans and just shows ecumenical ideas can work and have done so here for over 20 years.
I parked near the quarry and then walked for a good way along the road which wasn’t entirely necessary but did include passing a farm with 2 llamas. They did look odd with their long necks.
Just after the path to the Standards starts I had my lunch but could not eat it all so gave the birds some bread.
Carried on and before long got to the stones. They are very strange and are in good nick. I stopped for a bit but quite cold and windy so kept on to the trig point. Then I decided to cut across the dried out bog to Jack’s Standard. This was ok and then I did some serious nav and aimed at returning to the 9 Standards path. I met an old man with dog who suggested I go to the fell wall and down so I went with Frank aged nearly 80 who is ex farmer, milkman, climber, Mountain Rescue volunteer and all round mine of information. He showed me all sorts of things including a badger sett. We went to the end of the track where he had parked his car and where I should have. He then gave me a lift back to my car!
I drove back to Ravenstonedale for cake and tea followed by most powerful shower I’ve ever had.
Out and back to Kirkby Stephen to the Old Forge for much better dinner. I had beef carbonnade and it was also lots better than the one I made on Monday. It came with chips, new potatoes, swede mash, broccoli. And was cheaper than last night.
10km
440m ascent
 
Heading up to Nine Standards Rigg, peat erosion
Nine
Four/five
Four
 

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Cautley Spout and the Calf 260411

A leisurely start to my 4 day trip to the Howgills and Dales. I parked at the Cross Keys Temperance Inn (more on this later). I was feeling tired despite the regular exercise and a good sleep so looked at the Spout which seemed to be spouting about half way up the cliff and decided just to go up and see it close to and then return. The Spout actually starts at the top of the cliff. It was a situation where I thought I would just go a little bit further and then a bit more. Once I was at the top about 600m I continued along the path of Red Gill Beck. When I checked the map it seemed pointless to come all this way and not go to the Calf. So I carried on up the side of Force Gill Beck. At the top of the beck I saw the only people on the walk. They had passed me as I ate my lunch and come up widdershins to my clockwise route. I trotted up to the Calf. Still fine but very cold in the wind. I was glad of my new Millet, not Millets jacket and also new Smartwool merino socks. Excellent. Jacket light as feather and kept me warm. I rang my B&B with ETA from the Calf as good signal. On the map to get down you have to go over a kilometre and then turn back on yourself. I could see the path I wanted so did a short cut by the side of a beck. Then it was a short descent to the plain where there are remains of an Iron Age settlement.

I drove up to High Chapel House in Ravenstonedale pronounced Rissendall of course. Yelly very welcoming. Nice comfy billet.
Walked down to Black Swan and had olives and feta cheese then Tuscan chicken which was ok not madly brilliant and enormous portion so I could not eat it all.
500m ascent
8km
 
Evil sheep blocking my path
The Spout
From the Calf, pillows of Howgills
Lovely horses
 

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Lakes March/April 2011

Saturday 26th March
Arrived in Longsleddale in the early afternoon. We are staying in the Coach House at Capplebarrow which is near the middle of the dale, just a few yards from the church and the village hall which are the only things in the dale apart from farms and houses. The River Sprint runs along the side of the single track road and we can see it from the Coach House. The Coach House is small and compact. There is the most enormous bed meaning we will have to send semaphore signals to each other. Very neat Morso wood burner that kicks out huge amount of heat, it compensates for the fan heater that only gives us 3 minutes in the shower room. After getting settled in we went for a short circuit along towards the head of the valley and then back along the far side of the river.
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Sunday 27th March
Green Quarter
First day of forward clocks. We drove the first 3.5 km from our lodgings to Sadgill. Parked up. Lots of cars where before when I’ve been here there were none. Up a lovely stony track with burbling streams. Came across a vintage Land Rover mini rally. About 6 of them all trying to come down very steep bouldery part of path. Bloody bonkers but they seemed to be enjoying themselves. Seemed a risky thing to do to such beautifully preserved vehicles. Short stop where junction to Shipman Knotts and Kentmere Pike turns off.  Then away across the fell to Green Quarter. This is tiny hamlet next to Kentmere village. Out the other side and back onto the fell. Stopped for lunch looking over to Kentmere Tarn in the vale. On up to Green Quarter Fell. Passed Skeggles Water. This bit was quite bleak. Then on up Cocklaw Fell now overlooking our Longsleddale valley which is nice and green. On the homeward stretch with car in sight. Flapjack made by me v. good for keeping up energy levels as v. delicious.

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Monday 28th March

Harter Fell
It’s about an hour and a bit to drive a mere handful of miles because we are not crows. Parked up at Mardale Head. Free car park. Set off up Gatescarth Pass. After 20 mins I realised I’d left my iPhone on full view in the car. I left Mr B and raced down and back in 22 mins!   We plodded on and eventually arrived at the head of the pass. I also realised half way up that I’d left my lunch in the kitchen at the cottage. I considered pretending I’d only just found out when we sat to eat but instead fessed up feeling now very very stupid. Mr B kindly agreed to share his lunch with me and I gratefully accepted. We found a little hollow out of the wind and I ate half his lunch. After a bit more climbing we reached the summit of Harter Fell. Much colder on the tops. Headed off west to find the Nan Bield Pass. Some fairly challenging sections for Mr B height and exposure wise. It all went fine and we easily found the head of the pass. Mr B shared his Twix with me to give us a boost for the descent. It took a while but we got back down without further incident. Mr Bs first Wainwright and a jolly good one in perfect weather.

 

Towards High Street
Haweswater
On top of Harter Fell
Me too
Smallwater
Smallwater from the Nan Bield Pass
On the Nan Bield Pass

 

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Tuesday 29th March

Not a very good day for walking so we went to Kendal and wandered round a lot, then went on to Sedbergh and looked at second hand bookshops
Kendal
Wednesday 30th March
Hugill Fell
This is an “outlying fell” according to Wainwright. Very wet so kept it short. Managed to stay dry with all the gear. Annoyingly it seems to be drier in afternoon which is not what forecast said. We didn’t bother looking at Williamson’s monument as it was too hard to get over wall plus high fence.
Wet
Very wet
Mafioso sheep
Thursday 31st March
It was so wet the Sprint had burst its banks in several places. Neither of us feeling like walking in the downpour so we went to Ambleside and Windermere for the day. It had finally brightened up in the evening enabling us to do a longer circuit in Longsleddale going further towards the head of the valley, looking up at Harter Fell.
The Coach House (the small building)
Cute now but may well turn into EVIL sheep
Longsleddale
Longsleddale
Longsleddale
Longsleddale church, sorry but this made me roar with laughing

Friday 1st April

More rain in the morning so we went to the Abbot Hall Gallery in Kendal which was good. Too early for the Sheila Fell exhibition though.
Eating Out

The Wheatsheaf at Brigsteer

The food was quite good but we had to wait oh so long for it I was nearly climbing the wall.
Both had braised beef, why this has to come in a little round I don’t know. Horseradish mash was good. Not enough gravy as meat a bit dry. Mushrooms and shallots tasty. Braised red cabbage so vinegary I coughed on every mouthful. But cauli and broccoli cheese yummy.
Deja Vue in Kendal
My meal was fine, I had celeriac for a starter and then a filo pastry and beetroot mille feuille. Mr B ordered tuna and it came and just was not right so he sent it back. He ate some chips and then we went home and he had a nice sandwich with ham. So a mixed bag, suspect it’s best not to bother with this one again.
Eating In
We cheated on the first evening and had pots of risotto which were fine and did the job.
I made Green Thai chicken curry with basmati rice. Fab!
Also an omelette with various bits and pieces, this was a bit dry as I had not quite got the measure of the electric cooker.
We had pasta bolognese twice, slightly different each time, but very nice.
Oh and I made more flapjack this time with apple and it didn’t really stick together so more like sticky granola. I will continue to experiment with the flapjack recipe as it’s so much nicer than buying an energy bar and a lot cheaper.
Please visit Map and Compass and learn how to interpret a map with me and my navigation partner, Cath.
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