Bushcraft in the Lakes

Friday 2nd September
Chris and I made a good start, both managing to leave work early and setting off mid afternoon. An easy journey stopping of course at Lancaster services and loading up on caffeine and chocolatey goodies, just in case we never saw food again.
We stopped in Windermere and went to Booths as Chris had a desperate urge for instant hot chocolate and I got some trail mix. Then we drove down to the little ferry that goes across the lake and waited for it. £4 and 15 minutes later we were across the lake and parked up at the Cuckoo Brow pub in Far Sawrey.
We took some beer out into the garden and sat with the most handsome man on his own who turned out to be Steven, who we were meeting. Gradually the party assembled around our table. Woodsmoke‘s Land Rover no. 2 was being repaired and so this meant that we had to wait for some late people on the train. Eventually we set off, driving the car up the road to the front of a farmhouse, off the road, where we were leaving it for the weekend. Then all 10 or so of us loaded our bags onto the Land Rover which went off and  we set off for our 10-15 minute walk along the track to the woods. 10 minutes was more like 35 and when I looked on the map it’s over 2 km which even at 4 kph would be 24 minutes minimum so I felt Steven was a bit inaccurate with his measuring.
By the time we reached camp it was completely dark and really really dark as in the deep forest, well deep enough. The first job was to collect our bags and pitch our tents – “anywhere you like, plenty of flat and dry areas”. So off we toddled, having rooted out our head lamps, and gathered all our bags. We had not gone particularly lightweight owing to the promise of the Land Rover for the kit, however it might have been more sensible if we had as we now had to clamber across broken trees and a stream in the dark. We found somewhere flat but covered in branches, and then somewhere flat but soft and mossy so that’s where we pitched.
It was my first time with the new ultra lightweight tent, and I tried to put it up with the pole in the wrong place, fortunately Chris could see straight away what was wrong and helped me get it right.
We went back up the hill to the parachute which was strung up and provided a large dry circular area with seating and a fire for gathering round. We got the introduction talk which was mainly common sense and hygiene which is fine by me, we were a group of 13, with Chris the only girl, although I got added to her and we became a plural! Our leaders were Steven who lives in Edinburgh, John the apprentice and Willow, a Dutch woman who lives on a smallholding in Scotland. Then we got a tour of the camp, the hand washing area, the pot washing area, the badger bin, the bog box (loo roll box as signal that loo was occupied), the kitchen, and finally the latrine. By this time, I was a bit rattled and panicked as it had been quite a challenge putting the tents up in the dark and so I promptly made use of the latrine, someone had to start it off!
We then had some soup and bread and went to bed.
I slept quite well as the bed was pretty comfy and warm and then it started raining….

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Saturday 3rd September
I woke to the sound of Chris gently snoring, her alarm and the torrential patter of rain. We got all the anti wet gear on and located the breakfast. You could have Alpen type muesli, Weetabix and corn flakes; tinned fruit salad or tinned pears and that was about it. I went for muesli and fruit salad. Then over to the parachute for tea, coffee or fruit tea. The coffee was instant and horrid but necessary. I didn’t want a coffee cold turkey headache.
Class started promptly at 9 and Steven, even more gorgeous in the daylight, introduced us to saws, knives and bevels. After a session of this, we went off armed with folding saws, to cut down saplings. We also did a bit of mushroom identification. This warmed us up although the rain showed no sign whatsoever of ceasing its torrent.
Steven showed us how to cut a piece of green wood with the knife and then how to cut a notch and a bevel and a spike to create a pot holder. This was very satisfying.
Willow had also brought back some alder that she had cut down, for us to use to make a butter knife. This was much harder and was a project we returned to in quiet moments and interludes, and for myself, made absolutely no improvement, but some really picked it up quickly and made some very acceptable shapes e.g. a fish, a whale.
Our companions were, Joe, Gez, Simon, Rich, Hugo, Ashley, Matt, Bruce, Andrew, Andy and the one I can’t remember who reminded me of Andy our builder.
By the time we’d done all this, it was lunchtime, actually I can’t really remember. Lunch was bread rolls with various nice fillings and salad and dressings, this was not bad at all.
Maybe the carving bit was after lunch. At some point we got a bit chilled in the wet again so off we went armed with saws, this time to cut a piece of standing dead wood.
Dragged this back to camp and this we used to make feather sticks, as demonstrated most expertly by Willow. Then over to us, and boy was this difficult.
Steven gave us a short lecture about shelters as the rain meant we weren’t going to get one made, he mentioned knocking up a loom in an hour and using soft rush to weave a mat in just another half hour. We didn’t try this but double all his timings!
Next, Steven showed us how to prepare a trout and pin it so that it would cook over our fire. Also gave us a fire laying lesson. We split into 2 teams for this, our boys all tried to be bossy all at once which was quite funny. Chris and I let them play with fire and she and I made split sticks and prongs from the green wood, to poke the fish onto for cooking.
I had never filleted a fish before so this was a new experience for me and not as bad as I had imagined. We got the trout cooking, boiled up rice in billy cans held over the fire on our pot holders and were given some sweet potato mash and onions roasted in the fire. That fish was gorgeous, best I’ve had since Chris and I did mackerel on the cliffs above Combe Martin with Mandy in the dark many moons ago. During the cooking, the rain eased and finally stopped.
Chris and I had been a little anxious about the huge foot deep depressions we each had next to our tents. These had completely filled with water during the deluge. They now started to go down a bit.
I don’t really remember what we did after supper, a bit of chat. Willow was going to read us a bit from Jack London but it didn’t happen as the conversation went elsewhere.
They brought us cake at 9 o’clock and we had thought it would be nice cake but it was like the biscuits, cheap and cheerful but actually cheap and a bit depressing.

Fire gang
Fishy on a sticky

Sunday 4th September
I slept really well especially as the rain had stopped so I wasn’t fretting it was going to come in through the big pool.
Same old breakfast.
Off promptly for a walk, great as it was a lovely day. Down to the boat house where Woodsmoke keep some of their kit including some ancient snow shoes and saws etc.
We passed Three Dubs tarn next to the camp, and also Moss Eccles tarn which has a Beatrix Potter connection. A bit more plant identification and then we sat on a little hill and Steven gave us a lecture on water. Good information, all really useful. He is a very knowledgeable young man as well as easy on the eye.
Then back to camp and rolls again for lunch.
A bit on sharpening our knives and how to make sharpening boards which are easier to carry.
Our last activity was to attempt to make fire. Steven gave us a cracking demonstration but even he was panting afterwards and he is incredibly fit. Some of the others did manage it but Chris and I took quite a while to get the bow and spindle to make an ember. We managed to make a pile of dust which could quite feasibly have turned into an ember had we longer to practice. We were slightly hampered by giggles.
Then we got our bags into the Land Rover and travelled in it down to the bottom of the track with John.
Chris and I did a bit of pfaffing with our gear and then the boys turned up on foot and we said our goodbyes and got kissed by some of them.
We drove to Grizedale visitor centre, used the lovely loos with hot water and soap, and then walked up Carron Crag (one of Wainwright’s outlying fells) from where we had great views all round.
Back down and parked up in the National Trust car park for Beatrix Potter’s house in Near Sawrey. We had roast beef dinners in the Tower Bank Arms which were huge! And beer.
Then back to the car park at the bottom of the track and a walk that took at least 35 if not 40 minutes mostly in the dark back to camp. We even took a wrong turning right at last bit and ended up back by the boat house.
We said hello to the next lot of people who were staying for a week and then into the tents. The rain had started up again but we managed a drop of whisky each.

Three Dubs Tarn
Steven the Woodsman
Chris and boat house
Cloud inversion
Pike o’Stickle
Do Not Eat


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Monday 5th September
I thought I would sleep well but neither of us did. I was too hot, then everything felt clammy and damp with the excessive amounts of rain. None came in just it was all around.
We packed up the tents, said goodbye to some of the newcomers and headed off loaded up back down the track. We ate flapjack and chocolate in the car. The rain was stop start so we went to Hawkshead and had bacon, Cumberland sausage and beans and toast and not very good coffee.
Then back to Near Sawrey and a tour round Beatrix Potter’s house which was lovely. As well as having a cup saying “A gift from Hastings” she also had netsuke, even a hare with amber eyes. The house was surprisingly small. We took our anoraks off so as not to give the army of volunteers more work to do, they were drying off people’s coats somewhat ineffectively with a tea towel. I didn’t check to see if it had bunnies on it.
Then we went to Ambleside and did a tour of outdoor kit shops, just for a change. We went to a coffee shop where I had had nice coffee before but today it was too weak. I took my watch to the jewellers to fit a new battery. I returned 10 mins later than the time he had said and he said he needed another 10 mins. I went back for it after lunch, all well and good but this same man had done the same thing when he took a link out for me back in March, perhaps poor timing is endemic in this part of the world? We lunched in Dodd’s Restaurant which was very good Italian fare. Mine was a bit more soup like than Chris’ – she had opted not to have the wild mushrooms. Can’t think why as now we know which ones we can eat!!
Back home, we both thought we would sleep well after the not sleeping. I dreamt that an atom bomb had gone off over Bristol and that I had to find a source of water…

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Edale navigation training

I had an annoying journey to Edale which included a road that was closed with a long diversion, various sundry road works and a horse box for miles and miles. It must have been a very sick horse requiring to be driven at 5 mph.
Finally arrived a mere 40 minutes late at Edale Youth Hostel but Cath D was very chilled and we set off promptly. Despite her having spent the last 2 weeks in India cycling in the sun, she had managed not to get tanned. Very interesting to hear all her tales.
Cath was giving me the benefit of her Walking Group Leader knowledge. CD passed it earlier on this year and on the ground we were planning to cover.
The first leg was quite hard for me to work out, we were getting a precise location by using the contours. It was a challenge as I kept being distracted by a fence which was on the ground but not the map.
We stopped for lunch early on, because of the late start, by a corner of the fence. I took this to be a corner boundary on the map however it wasn’t, so we then worked out where we were using the contours and finding the top of a little gully. Then the corner of walls were in the right places.
We followed the wall up using timing and pacing to find our next target. There was supposed to be another wall running parallel for a short distance but it was very hard to see as was completely overgrown. We then successfully found a stream marked on the map but mainly a bit of bog, but as we walked down to our next target, it actually became a stream we couldn’t see underfoot. In order to stop myself from slipping I grabbed onto a bit of foliage which unfortunately for me was a thistle. Ow!
Down to a much bigger stream which we crossed and then walked all the way up to the top. This was fun, lots of narrow ledges, slippery stones, and thigh high rocks to clamber up. CD is very nimble on her pins but I am an old goat really. Just as C was having a pee, a foreign gentleman turned up looking for his compass. We arrived at the top of the little gorge. Next target was to find a pond on the plateau. I followed my strategy of pacing, then taking a bearing and walking along the contour to find it. C walked further along the path to the end of a wall before taking a bearing to it. We both located a pond but whether it was the right one I’m not entirely sure. We then decided to walk to the next pond by pacing but it seemed to arrive sooner than it should have.
At this point, the heavens opened and we opted for returning to the YH. C quizzed me on nav and I gave her my specialist subject talk on the history of the YHA, with its connections to Ramblers, mass trespass, CROW, HF holidays (Cath now works for HF – brilliant, and is about to lead her first group on Dartmoor next week), Co-operative Holidays, etc. etc. She didn’t seem too bored, although did have a sudden burst of phone activity during this….!
We both then missed the turn back to the YH because of yattering on so. Got back at 18.00 so we’d spent 6 hours out and only covered about 5 km, if that.
It was really good getting out and being challenged. Cath is of course a great teacher (she encouraged me to get into teaching many years ago). Most enjoyable and good to walk in an area I don’t tend to go to much. Admittedly this is because the journey to get to the Dark Peak always seems to be hard work.
As I left the YH track there were some strange goat/sheep in the field next the track. They had goat faces and black and white sheep fleece.
It only took an hour and a half to get back, following another ruddy tractor for about 10 miles.

Cath and a misleading fence
The gorgeous gorge
Cath Cool
From well before the mass trespass
Clouds over Edale
I think this is Lose Hill

 

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Hartsop Dodd

A leisurely start to the day including coffee at Lancaster services where I also bought a sandwich and a packet of crisps in M&S. I’d spotted Hartsop Dodd a couple of weeks ago and it took my fancy. I knew it would be steep straight away and it was a stiff climb. I took a breather after about a 100m of climbing for a call of nature whereupon I piddled all over my camera case. Considering it was holding my new camera, you will be glad to know that the case is waterproof! I’ve now washed it and will be giving it a squirt of Nikwax!
It took about an hour to get to the top of the Dodd so I stopped and had half my lunch. I wanted a longer walk so decided to carry on up to Stony Cove Pike (also known as Caudale Moor). I could see over to Thornthwaite Crag beacon which soon became obscured by mist. Although the mist loomed all day, I managed to miss it all which was great as I didn’t have to keep changing clothes. However one of my objectives was to have to navigate in mist but hey ho you can’t win ’em all!
The drop from Stony Cove down to Threshthwaite col is very steep indeed and basically 100m of scrambling which was great fun. I stopped at the bottom of the scramble and had the rest of my lunch.
Then it was down via Pasture Beck all the way back to the car. The path was much wetter than a fortnight back, more like a stream most of the way.
Good weather, good climb, good scramble descent, lovely.

Hartsop Dodd
Looking back
On top of the Dodd
Herdwick sheep
Lowering clouds
Nearly back
Not sure what these are for

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Walshaw Dean Lower and Middle

This should have been a weekend wild camping in the Lakes but the forecast was so dire we decided to just aim for a long walk instead. Yesterday morning waking to an enormous clap of thunder we had clearly made the right decision about camping. So we did household jobs and aimed for today. Today we woke to a big lot of rain. Whilst waiting for it to stop raining (mid afternoon) I amused myself by not fixing a computer and getting very cross with it. I don’t like to be beaten.
Eventually we got out and drove up to Widdop in lovely clear early evening sun. Everything crisp and clean after the rain. We walked to the parapet between Middle and Lower Walshaw Dean reservoirs and then came back. Although we were only out for a couple of hours it was a lovely walk.
I tried out my new to me Mountain King Trail Blaze walking poles. I bought these on eBay for £29 (they retail at £70). They are as good as new and fine once you get used to them. They are really really light, and fold up like a tent pole. I didn’t particularly need them for this walk, this was just a road test. They feel a bit flimsy at first but actually are strong. The tautening mechanism almost floored me but finally I worked it out. I’ll probably mainly use them when I’m very keen to keep the weight down, pleased with my bargain.

Walshaw Dean Lower reservoir
Walshaw Dean Middle reservoir

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Thornthwaite Crag and Gray Crag

I set off somewhat later than planned and only arrived at the free (honesty box for donations to the school) car park in Hartsop at 11.45. Only 2 and a quarter hours to get to the centre of the Lakes with no stopping for coffee. The walk along Pasture Beck is a good warm up, and pretty to boot, just contouring along the valley. At the head there is a bit of a climb and then it’s a short section of scree from the shoulder with Stoney Cove Pike. That’s the one that Wainwright refers to as Caudale Moor which is just annoying as the Pike is a perfectly good name and is the summit. This time I headed east up to Thornthwaite Crag which has a great beacon to mark it. This looks a bit like some of the ones I saw over in the Dales. I wondered if it’s connected with the Roman road. I also wondered if you can get a Roman map of the Lake District as they must have made some.
I chatted with some fellas and one of them took my photo on my camera so for once on a solo expedition there is a picture of me but even though I showed him the zoom control and he claimed to be a photographer, his efforts are fairly rubbish.
I could have whizzed up to High Street and back down that way but although I’m fond of it, I opted to bag another Wainwright and come down Gray Crag. This was a long, broad ridge and even though the map had a path that just stopped, I decided to go for it anyway as AW had said it was possible. There were signs that it was a maintained path, just a narrow one and the path did exist for real on the ground.
The weather was good, a bit of sun, a bit of cloud, a bit of wind and a bit of cool on the top.

Looking back towards Hartsop
Beacon on top of Thornthwaite Crag
Bloody useless photographer!
Hayeswater and my boots
Descent to Hartsop
Hayeswater Gill
My horseshoe

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